The Ridgeway, Part 2-3rd June 2007

An early breakfast meant an early rising. However, the breakfast was well worth getting up for! Filling and tasty, it set us on our way perfectly. We even got to see a Red Kite up close in the neighbour's garden.

It was another scorching day as we headed past Shirburn Hill and towards Watlington. There were some beautiful poppy fields and more views of Red Kites as we made our way south west to Nuffield. Thankfully, much of the walk was in shady wooded areas which meant that we didn't have to feel the full force of the sun on our heads. This was a very quiet section of the Ridgeway with few meetings of people.

We stopped at The Crown in Nuffield for a fantastic mixed cheese ploughmans before continuing along the excitingly named Grim's Ditch, dating from the Iron Age. Unfortunately, however, it didn't really live up to its name. It was pleasant enough but quite dull as we trudged along.

However, things picked up when we reached Carmel College and started South. The path veered occasionally towards the Thames and the scenery was much more varied. We also went through North Stoke which was a beautiful village with some lovely properties. The path became very grassy and soft underfoot and we admired the boats as they went past us on the river.

We were beginning to tire again as we were nearing the 15 mile mark and so were pleased to discover that there was a pub open at South Stoke called The Perch and Pelican; it was a fantastic pub with very welcoming staff. We sat and had a leisurely drink before heading off to Goring on Thames. Goring seems a lovely town and was incredibly busy. We soon reached the car and were pleased to have completed the first half of the Ridgeway Path.

This section was very good for solitude and wildlife; we saw hardly any people but plenty of butterflies, squirrels, rabbits and insects. Oh, and, of course, the Red Kites!

The Ridgeway, Part 1 - 2nd June 2007

The Ridgeway is a National Trail which runs through the Chilterns and West of the Thames. We planned to walk it over two weekends, splitting into two sections roughly 44 miles each. This first weekend we started at the Eastern end (Ivinghoe Beacon) on Saturday morning, aiming to reach Streatley by Sunday evening.

To be sure of an early start, we decamped to Aldbury on Friday night and stayed in the excellent Greyhound Inn. After a fine evening meal, pleasant sleep and hearty breakfast, we headed out to Ivinghoe.

Of course, the early start was planned weeks ago and by the time Saturday came around we'd forgotten all about it. So it was 11:00 and we had 26 miles to walk before bedtime.

The sun was hammering down in unwonted fashion, and we were dangerously short of water but the sepctacular countryside and cloudless sky promised a good day's walking.

The trail starts in ridgey fashion, but the hills are not extravagant. The Chilterns is an AONB where lush green fields, cool forests and pleasant villages are the order of the day. We started in an ambling fashion, still forgetting the original plan and reached Wiggington just before 13:00.

Here we had a Council of War to decide whether to stray from the path into the town to top up our water reserves. We checked the map, calculated the remaining distance and realised we'd made a mistake... If we continued at the same rate, we'd be lucky to see our lodgings by 21:30.

Brave, flexible souls we are and so we formed an alternative plan. We slogged on through the blazing heat and glorious countryside, parched and muttering delirously, until Wendover where we caught one of the local privately-run trains (frequent, clean and reliable so obviously not a national concern) to Princes Risborough.

The railroad cut six miles of walking out of the journey and saved us a couple of hours. We'd eaten our lunch on the train and stocked up with water, so from Risborough onwards we were much chirpier.

The route continued among scenery reminiscent of the South Downs and in the cooling evening it made very pleasant walking. Between us we were suffering from sore legs and blistered toes, the toll for lack of recent distance practice, and we were unexpectedly pleased to pass under the M40 - making us just a mile from the Guest House at about 19:00.

Arrivingly shortly afterwards at Moorcourt Cottages in Lewknor, we received a very warm weclome from our hosts. We didn't stay long before heading back out for dinner - at "Ye Leathern Bottel" in the village. Another excellent dinner, a hobbling return to the bedroom and a sound sleep finished off the day.